Luxury Barge Cruise in Burgundy Day by Day Review

Are you looking for a relaxing, wonderfully gastronomic vacation that includes history and fabulous scenery? Have you considered a luxury barge cruise in Burgundy, France? Today, I review my 6 day hosted cruise with European Waterways along the Canal du Centre, aboard the ultra-deluxe hotel barge Finesse which accommodates just 8 guests in spacious suites.

Barge Cruise in Burgundy Review – Fast Facts

The Burgundy barge cruise on Finesse begins on a Sunday afternoon and ends on Saturday morning. Guests are currently picked up and dropped off in Dijon.

The pace is slow and leisurely, the excursions are fascinating, and the food and wine are phenomenal.

We flew from Australia to Paris and then caught the fast train to Dijon (the capital of Burgundy) and spent two wonderful days exploring the city prior to the canal cruise. It’s a fabulous city to spend time in.

Read on for my day to day, barge vacation review.

Sunday Day 1 – Dijon to Chalon sur Saône

At 4pm on Sunday, we’re met in Dijon at the stately Grand Hotel La Cloche  by Mathias, our Captain, who is at once smiling, friendly and helpful. 

He drives us in a comfy, well maintained European Waterways mini bus to the hotel barge Finesse moored alongside a riverbank in a quiet position near the centre of Chalon sur Saone, a small town in the centre of Burgundy. 

It takes just under an hour to get there, and in this time we get to know our fellow travellers, just 4 other guests on this trip (although the barge can accommodate a total of 8 guests).

Our welcome on the barge is nothing but five star. We meet Will our tour guide, Diana and Luna our hostesses, and Arnie our private chef, who are all on deck to greet us with smiling introductions  … and a glass of champagne. 

Inside the salon (lounge area) Arnie has prepared plates of exquisite canapés, some with caviar others with a delicious local goats cheese, all garnished from his barge ‘garden’ (the window boxes strapped to the barge rails).

We’re shown to our cabins which are truly spacious and luxurious, each with a comfy king size bed or twin beds, and three choices of pillow.

The rooms are carpeted in a mink coloured, soft carpeting. There’s a wooden wardrobe and a dressing table, side tables with bedside lamps. It’s all very elegant, functional, and totally luxurious.

The bathrooms are spacious and modern. There are upmarket amenities (L’Occitane), white fluffy dressing gowns and slippers. Not to mention welcome packs that include caps, tote bags and water bottles on the bed.

We freshen up, some of us change for dinner, and at around 7pm we’re treated to the most delicious cordon bleu meal. Four courses paired with different wines of the region.

The chat around the table is lively, and our fellow bargers, who hail from America, are all really friendly and fun.

Chalon sur Saone is a picturesque town in central Burgundy between Dijon and Macon, and although it’s Burgundy’s second city after Dijon, perhaps it isn’t on the well trodden mass tourist trail … just lovely!!

After dinner we take a moonlight stroll to the bridge spanning the river, and by the light of the moon walk around the streets of Chalon Sur Saone.

We discover the town hall (Place de l’Hotel de Ville) and beautiful, ancient half timbered houses that seem scattered around the picturesque Saint-Vincent Square, a square dominated by the 11th century Cathedral Saint Vincent.

Later I find out that Saint Vincent is the patron saint of winemakers. Aha! I hope he’ll be looking over my shoulder on this cruise!

I speculate that in the daytime you might be tempted to sit at a pavement cafe in Saint Vincent Square, which has been the heart of the city for more than 800 years, and gaze at the picturesque houses, and do like the French do – watch the passing parade while sipping a steaming hot espresso, and enjoying a freshly baked, flaky croissant.

Cross one of the three bridges crossing the River Saone and you’ll come to Ile Saint Laurent which is situated in the centre of the river, and used to house the city’s former hospital. It still houses the Doyenne Tower. 

We’re told that during the Second World War the river was the boundary between Nazi occupied and Vichy controlled France, and the sad fact is that many families living in Chalon were separated by order – yet by no more than the river running in between them.

We have a nightcap in the salon, and a quick chat with our fellow travellers, before turning in to our comfortable beds.

I can’t wait to begin barging tomorrow!

Monday Day 2 – Chalon sur Saone to Fragnes

By day 2 you’re in no doubt that you’re on a slow voyage of discovery, an intimate journey, a slow dive into a culture and a landscape.

As I draw the curtains across our cabin porthole the river laps in glassy waves, almost up to the window. A larger river cruise boat glides past creating a swell. We’re still on the river, but later we’ll be turning onto the Canal du Centre where only small vessels are permitted.

Dave goes for a walk into Chalon Sur Saone. It’s raining so I stay snug on the barge. 

Breakfast is served in the salon. It’s a varied and delicious buffet with a cooked breakfast to follow. 

The day begins with a slow cruise along the river and later in the morning we turn onto the Canal du Centre heading towards Fragnes. Completed in 1792, this canal was originally built to serve coal mines, and now it provides a gentle passage for pleasure craft.

We chat with Captain Mathias up at the Wheelhouse as rain comes down, harder now. In Western Australia we are not used to this wet stuff falling – so no complaints! We enjoy it!

After some gentle cruising we come to our first lock. 30 feet high it’s the second deepest lock in France; the Ecluse de Crissey. It’s an intriguing sight and experience as Will and Mathias expertly navigate the extremely deep, narrow passage. We all inwardly breathe in as Finesse glides into the lock, not a centimetre to spare.

After a fabulous 3 course lunch with paired wines we’re driven through rolling countryside and quiet roads to the Chateau of Germolles. 

This is a privately owned chateau dating back to the 13th Century, and it’s one of the best preserved private residences of the Dukes of Burgundy, namely that of Philippe the Bold and Catherine of Flanders.

We’re given a private tour by the owner himself, who is flamboyant and passionate in his descriptions as we march back through time. It’s absolutely fascinating. An entire wing has been reconstructed to depict how it would have been in the past – amazingly in 2016 they uncovered and renovated some of the 13th Century painting on the walls. 

What was it like growing up between these hallowed walls we ask our host, as we are teased with his tales of finding secret cupboards, ancient passageways and stories of olde.

After an afternoon of history brought to life we are driven back to the barge through quaint villages and verdant pastures. We’re met by Diana and immediately served a refreshing cocktail, accompanied by some tasty canapes. 

And then it’s a little rest, change of clothes, and champagne before the most sumptuous 4 course dinner paired with excellent wines of the region.

What an amazing day it’s been!

Tuesday Day 3 – Fragnes to Rully

Hooray! The skies cleared this morning, and the wet stuff, that we don’t get much of in WA, stopped!

So we leap up as fast as our old bones will let us, and take a walk along the tow path. 

The Canal du Centre twists between wheat and corn fields sometimes with vines stretching to the horizon, so the opportunity to get off the barge and stretch our legs is always welcome. 

Along route we have a chat with an old man and his dog, mostly in French (which surprised us both – and the dog!) and we gathered that he said the weather would stay clear until tonight. Or maybe not!! A few words of French goes a long way, and I’m glad we at least try a little bit to be local rather than altogether foreign.

When you’re dreamily cruising along, you often feel as if you’re in the middle of beautiful nowhere. So it’s good to see a signpost or two when walking along the towpath!

Meanwhile our barge, Finesse, lay sleeping on the opposite bank, a sleek lady painted in a blue livery, just waking up, with breakfast being prepared by our lovely crew.

After breakfast we drive with Will and Mathias to the pretty village of Nuits Saint George, and on to what we are told is the most expensive vineyard in the world : Romanee Conti in Vosne Romanee. 

Recognized worldwide as one of Burgundy’s finest vineyards it dates back to the 11th century, and is probably the most hallowed name in Burgundian wine, and quite possibly the entire vinous world! It contains 8 hectares of vines producing wines that sell for about EU25,000 (AUD40,000) a bottle. The most expensive bottle of wine ever sold was Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 1945 – Price: $558,000.

We learn about the confrerie des Chevaliers de Tastevin founded in 1934 in Nuits Saint Georges. The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin acquired the Château in 1945, and started to restore it, turning it into the seat of the Order which has all sorts of traditions, ceremonies and gourmet banquets throughout the year. 

The Château du Clos de Vougeot is an imposing building set in the heart of Burgundy’s vineyards. Originally a wine farm it was built in the 12th century by monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux. In the 16th century a Renaissance style château was added to the existing buildings.

With its medieval vat-house and wine presses, a Cistercian cellar and original kitchens, it’s a fabulous step back in time. We were awed by the enormous ancient wine presses dating back to the14th Century which were last used around the time of WW1. Such history!

Afterwards we travel back to Finesse for a refreshing glass of freshly made lemonade with mint leaves, before enjoying a sumptuous lunch.

The salon on Finesse is such a bright, relaxing place, equipped with modern furniture and lots of useful reading material, plus information on the route and what you might see. It’s a beautiful area to sit and watch the world of Burgundy go by.

So in the afternoon we sit back and relax on deck as Burgundy floats past. I’m beginning to understand that it’s a majestic mosaic of lands with its roots dating back to the Middle Ages. 

The weather holds, and we are keen to get out and explore this land first hand. Will lifts two bikes down onto the canal bank and off we go for a lovely long lazy ride along the tow path while Finesse navigates a series of locks on our way to our mooring for the night.

Later on, just before dinner we’re treated to canapes, plus a musical surprise: A private jazz performance. A jazz trio sets up in the lounge area and we’re entertained with dulcet tunes, and traditional songs, all accompanied by Arnie’s delicious canapés, and champagne cocktails.

Wednesday Day 4- Rully to Chagny to Remigny

After all the gourmet fare we’ve been enjoying I felt so full this morning that I had to say no to brekkie, as well as no to Arnie’s offer of a tasty cheesey omelette. This felt like ABSOLUTE sacrilege! 

However, the only thing my tummy craved was a cup of tea followed by a walk along the tow path (to make room for today’s gourmandiese! Is that even a word? It should be!)

At 10am prompt Will drove us along country roads and through pretty villages towards Beaune.

I gazed longingly at the quaint brick houses, their windows framed by wooden shutters. Right now they’re surrounded by colourful gardens resplendent with wisteria and spring flowers. Beyond, we could see Canola and wheat fields merging with vineyards that stretched all the way up limestone hills until they reached the wooded summits.

We were heading to the oldest winery in Burgundy, Maison Champy.

Founded by Edme Champy in 1720, this winery is situated in a narrow cobbled street and has witnessed over 300 years of turbulent history.

Its dark, dank warren of Caves that lie beneath the building, date back to the 15th Century. They once belonged to a convent and can actually store more than 1000 bottles of wine, maturing in a peaceful chill, without murmur, in big oak barrels.  The oldest barrel apparently dates back to 1942.

The oldest bottle of wine still stored – 1858.

The Maison Champy building itself is infused with history and the echoes of famous names.

Louise Pasteur had his own lab here. He pioneered and patented a type of pasteurisation to stabilise wine in its fermentation process. These days the stabilisation process has changed, but his pasteurisation equipment is still viewable in the entrance hall.

Another famous name associated with the winery is Gustav Eiffel the architect who built the Eiffel Tower. He was born in Dijon and came to the Beaune winery in 1891. Daniel told us that he built more than 10 metres of support columns in La Cuverie (the vat room).

5 Fun Facts about Maison Champy

1. Maison Champy won its first medal at the Paris World Fair in 1889.

2. Maison Champy is in the Cote de Beaune. There are around 800 plots or climats in this region all with different names.

3. The oldest vintage stored in the cellar dates back to1858. There’s just one bottle left. During the 2nd WW it was hidden from the occupying German army in secret spots in the underground caves (along with other bottles of note).

4. Beaune is the wine capital of Burgundy.

5.  Maison Champy produces 500,000 bottles of wine per year.

After a super informative wine tasting with Daniel, who explained the intricacies, rules and methods of wine making in Burgundy, we were shown to an enormous vat and told that it once was capable of holding 20,000 litres of wine.

Daniel opened the door with a grand flourish.

“And here, in Cuve 17, we shall enjoy lunch,” he said.

And what a fabulous lunch we had! Sitting in an enormous wine barrel!

We could hardly stand after the wonderful four course lunch paired with vintage wines (Premier and Grand Crus).

Then we were whisked off to the Hotel Dieu Hospices of Beaune which is the most beautiful building, occupied until as recently as 1984 by infirm and elderly patients.

However, as a former charitable almshouse, it dates back to 1441 when Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guigone de Salins built a hospital to care for the poor and sick.

This large Gothic architectural creation, with its vivid interior courtyard, half-timbered gallery, turrets and multi-coloured roof tiles, is incredibly beautiful.

Originally the hospital had 30 beds, 15 on each side each with a curtain for privacy. One bed would accommodate 2 patients. The first patient was admitted in 1452, and the medical implements on view in the museum made me cringe!

In the afternoon, Dave and I walked along the tow path for a couple of hours as Finesse cruised gracefully along the canal to Remigny.

And then we had a long soak in the hot tub on deck. Bliss!

Then it was cocktail hour, aperol spritz for me, and a fabulous dinner of Arnie’s amazing creations. Plus he gave us a little cooking demo! Of course we’ll all be cordon bleu cooks at the end of the week!

Thursday Day 5 – Remigny to Saint Leger

Thursday on Finesse somewhere in deepest Burgundy! 

Today we’ll be cruising between Remigny and Saint Leger, a distance of about 11 km, taking about 4 hours.

It was raining cats and dogs when we woke up so we decided not to explore Remigny but rather to laze in the warmth of the barge drinking coffee and having a lazy breakfast.

Captain Mathias started cruising early and we passed small villages, and many vineyards synonymous with the Chalonnaise region. 

We were slowly transported through emerald green countryside spotted with Burgundy’s distinctive white Charolais cows.

Along the canal bank big chestnut trees in creamy bloom towered above the barge while other trees looked as if they had been invaded by mistletoe.

Everything looked sylvan, even in the rain. Shuttered houses drifted past, villages and church steeples came into view in the distance. It was all very relaxing and pretty despite inclement weather.

After another superlative 3 course lunch, including generously sized freshly cooked lobster tails, it was time for our excursion to Chanzy wine estate. 

Will drove us along tightly woven country lanes with high hedgerows. Every now and then we were afforded a fabulous far reaching view and it was like emerging from a maze.

Chanzy was interesting for different wine making reasons, not least that they use more grapes in their wines (including Aligote and Gamay).  Burgundian wineries mostly use Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes almost exclusively.  

Soon it was back to the barge for aperitifs and canapes (don’t hate me!) How will we ever get back to normal I ask myself? 

Onto dinner we rolled, tonight a main of deliciously prepared and beautifully presented lamb rack in breadcrumbs, and another dessert to die for.

There was lots of chatter and laughter with our fellow travellers, lots of cooking tips from Chef Arnie, and then it was time for bed.

Another lovely day! 

Friday Day 6 – Saint Leger sur Dheune to Saint Julian sur Dheune.

The elevation of the canal drops today and we have to pass through 11 locks. Although the pace is slow and gentle and there are country scenes on one side, to the other there is quite a busy road.

This is our last day on Finesse with European Waterways and we are going to make the most of every minute!

We wake to sunshine and birdsong in Saint Leger sur Dheune. A pigeon coos. Good smells are coming from the galley already. 

We put on our walking shoes decide to take a walk through the village and along the canal tow path. It’s really atmospheric this morning – the countryside is looking lush and green – as emerald green as any fancy jewel. Long shadows fall across the water and a soft morning mist rises above it adding to the peace and serendipity.

Burgundy, we are learning, has a heritage steeped in the people, the earth, the climate, the countryside, and the traditions. You can very much feel the continuity between the past and the present in the foods and customs that still exist today, brought alive to us via the food, the wines and the excursions we’re experiencing.

It’s one of the biggest regions of France. Covering about 5% of French territory. It’s bigger than Belgium, but has only about 2.9% of the population of France, making it one of the least populated regions in Europe.

“Everything Burgundian is naturally universal.”

Henri Vincent

Wine has been produced on Burgundy’s fertile hillsides for centuries with vineyards usually situated on slopes facing the rising sun or the south east, divided into thousands of Climats, which defines a plot of land with it sown specific properties, soil, subsoils, exposure etc. A parcel of land which will have been identified by the same name not for years but for centuries.

The region, I’m told, has exceptional soil and its easy to see that it’s altogether a veritable chocolate box of produce. Cereals and vegetables are grown here, meat comes from the splendid white Charolais cattle, there are gourmet mustards, spiced breads, red berries gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries, black berries and the most delicious cheeses – I especially like Epoisses de Bourgogne.

After another slap-up breakfast in the salon we clamber into the mini bus waiting close by, and Will drives us along scenic country roads to Autun.

Autun is renowned for its Roman heritage and was once upon history an active centre in Roman times. 

It’s a fairly small town, listed as one of the 100 most historic in France and it’s set in a pastoral  spot with the Morvan hills behind.

Autun still has some of the original fortified walls (ramparts) around the old town and we began our visit with a look at one of the main Roman Gates to the city. It was wonderful to be transported back in time, and if you listened to the whispers on the breeze you could imagine Roman soldiers and citizens passing through right where we were standing.

Then we were taken to the well preserved remains of a Roman Amphitheatre that once seated 20,000 people.

Next door was the military college which according to Will, Napoleon once attended.

Our visit continued to a pretty courtyard and on via walkways lined with trees in spring blossom, to the impressive Cathedral of Saint-Lazare dating back to the 12th century. It was built around 1120 to take in pilgrims wanting to meditate upon the relics of Saint Lazaro.

We had a little time to explore the centre of Autun, which is mostly situated in the streets around two large squares – one dominated by Autun’s Theatre and Town Hall and the other by the imposing Lycée buildings.

There was a bustling market and some wonderful fresh veggies, fruits and olives among other mouthwatering produce for sale.

For lunch Arnie had prepared a French buffet in ‘le weekend’ style – which was varied and super delish. 

After several glasses of fine wine mostly everyone was happy to relax as Mathias captained Finesse through 8 more locks (11 in all today) along the Canal du Centre. 

Despite having to prepare the celebratory Captain’s dinner for tonight, Arnie made the time to give us a cooking class in the afternoon. He showed us how to prepare Gougeres which we devoured afterwards sitting in the sunshine up at the Wheelhouse with Captain, Mathias.

The sun was out, the scenery was bucolic, the pace slow and gentle, and we all variously enjoyed the last leg of the cruise until we came to our final mooring at Saint Julian sur Dheune.

Dave and I took a beautiful stroll along the tow path before it was time to get scrubbed up for the Captain’s Dinner.

And what a grand dinner it was!

5 courses of cordon bleu delights freshly prepared that day, all from scratch, by our private Chef Arnie, served with some of the very best wines of the region.

All too soon it was time for bed. Tomorrow morning after breakfast (Arnie’s promised us Eggs Benedict in addition to the normal buffet options) we depart for Dijon at 9am, sadly all to go our separate ways.

“What a fabulous 6 day cruise it’s been! So many magic moments to treasure! Looking out over Saint Julian sur Dheune from the deck of the barge on our final evening, as light drizzle softens the warming May air, I come to the conclusion that, for me, Burgundy is just dreamy. The canal cruise aboard Finesse has offered slow travel, and a deep dive into the heart of this region. I think back to what we’ve encountered in just a few days and realise this journey has been a veritable smorgasbord of sight and taste sensations. We’ve witnessed a countryside resembling a tapestry of sweeping vistas encompassing rolling green pastures, acres of vineyards, historic wineries, picturesque medieval villages, enchanting chateaux, forests, fields of bright yellow canola, ripening wheat, historic towns and ancient architecture, and the most gastronomic faire. Overall the cruise has been relaxing, informative, fun and delicious in so many ways!”

Johanna Castro

I travelled as a guest of European Waterways. Big thanks to the fabulous crew. Captain Mathias, Chef Arnie, Hostesses Diana and Luna, and Deck Hand/Tour Guide Will.

European Waterways Facts and Figures

European Waterways operate 18 vessels, in 9 countries across Europe

2024: Based on 2 passengers sharing, prices for a 6 night cruise aboard the 8-passenger Finesse start from €7,490 / £6,350 per person and include all gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar for the duration of the cruise, daily escorted excursions, admissions, and private transfers at either end of the cruise.  Full barge charters are also available for families and groups.

European Waterways: Tel: 01753 598555 or Toll Free from USA 1 800 394 8630   Website: europeanwaterways.com

What’s Finesse Really Like?

• Constructed as a working barge in 1950 Finesse was originally christened Nivea, but she was remodelled and transformed into a luxury hotel barge and renamed in 2015. 
• Finesse is an ultra-deluxe barge with two decks – cabins on the lower deck and saloon and sun deck above. 
• Communal areas include a saloon with contemporary furnishings. Lined with panoramic windows on either side, no matter the weather, you’ll be able to enjoy the passing scenery of rural France. 
• Fitted with four luxury double bedroom cabins, each room can be arranged with either double or twin beds. Suites have their own en suite bathrooms with walk in showers and double basins, and comprise approximately 265 square feet of floor space each. 
• Out on the sun deck you’ll find reclining loungers and a spa pool. You may also choose to take your dinner al-fresco on a balmy summers evening. 
• There are five crew members on hand to attend to your every need. 
• The wheelhouse observation area allows guests to sit behind the captain, watching the scenery go by. 
• A unique feature of Finesse is the open kitchen, a demonstration galley, where you can watch and learn from your chef as he prepares meals.

Frequently Asked Questions

But what if I don’t get on with the other guests?

I’ve been on 3 European Waterways hotel barge cruises and can honestly say that on these 3 trips we’ve met the most wonderful people, and made lifelong friends. The people we’ve met have been from America and Australia and all had similar reasons for booking a barge cruise; namely, an interest in slow travel, fine wines, good food, the history of the area, and a desire for vacation relaxation (as opposed to adrenalin pumping adventure activity). There’s always been much to chat about, mull over and laugh about, and in my experience people have always been sensitive not to discuss controversial topics that might disrupt the harmony of the group.

If you are really concerned about other guests, you have the option to charter the whole barge and take along your own friends and family. Alternatively, the crew can sometimes arrange two separate tables for dining.

How active is a barge cruise?

Some barge cruises offer more opportunities than others to walk or bicycle along the canal tow path, so always check how much availability there is for this before assuming you can get onto the tow path whenever you want.

When it comes to the amount of walking you’ll be doing, from my experience of cruises in Burgundy, Champagne and Italy, there have been daily excursions by mini bus to various nearby attractions which have involved small amounts of gentle walking.

Compared to an ocean cruise or a large boat river cruise, a luxury small barge cruise is much gentler. No waves, no queing for a buffet. Due to the small number of guests there’s no jostling or waiting to get off the barge and the mini bus parks nearby to take you on private excursions.

Where to stay in Dijon before and after the cruise

Your meeting place is in the lobby of the Grand Hotel La Cloche, and this is a fabulous hotel from which to explore Dijon. It’s easy to walk to the historic centre from here, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. It has a long history in Dijon, and the facade is impressive. You can also be collected and dropped off at the train station, also nearby.

Here’s an article I wrote for Have A Go News.

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